Pewenche - First Harvest

Pewenche - First Harvest.jpg

By James Kelly:

Late that summer in the evening sun, pausing to ask permission from the spirits before entering their forest. Climbing the hillside, feet kicking up clouds of dry, powdery soil, the dust hanging in the air. Emerging out into the clearing to survey the trees around us, sizing up the giant seed-cones with their bounties of fruit. Climbing again, this time just one, a lone figure dexterously scaling the tree, the nimble body intuiting the path, instinctive, without hesitation or fear, unfazed by the rough armour of foliage, hard and sharp, unforgiving yet giving to those who know how. Then the sound of rustling from atop, the figure trying to prise loose a seed-cone, premature perhaps, the first of the season. The tree resisting, unwilling to give up its treasures without a struggle. Time passing, the last golden rays of sun fading, the shadows creeping up the mountains across the valley, submerging the rocks and forests and leaving a coolness in the air. Gazing up at the tree in anticipation, scanning among the thrashing branches for the source of the noise. Then suddenly, prised loose, sent sailing through the air, the seed-cone falls to Earth, round like a football, heavy like a stone, landing with a dull thud that shakes the ground.

Later, as the evening begins to fade and the first stars appear in the boundless Chilean sky, we prise one of the seed-cones open to reveal the bounty inside. After giving thanks to nature and its spirits, we boil up some of the pine nuts and place them in a bowl on the table: warm and steaming, sweet to the taste. They are the first of that year’s harvest, the fruits of the pewen, or Araucaria araucana, the lifeblood of the Pewenche, whose name quite literally means the people of the pewen.

***

James Kelly is a writer and translator with a strong interest in landscape and time. His work explores interactions between different timescales, from the human to the geological, and what we can learn from the cosmovisions of other peoples in our relationships with the land. More of his work can be found at www.geosoph.scot/writing/.

Five Questions for... Malte Brandenburg

Photo: Malte Brandenburg

Photo: Malte Brandenburg

By Sara Bellini

Malte Brandenburg is a photographer based in Copenhagen. In his creative practice he looks for simplicity and symmetry and in the past he has often found them in Berlin buildings. Housing spaces are explored both in their aesthetics as well as their urbanistic context and social value. After the pandemic changed his travelling plans, Malte is now finalising some projects while exploring the familiar streets of Copenhagen with his camera. 

What does home mean to you?

That is a tricky question for me as I left my home town Berlin almost thirteen years ago and moved to Copenhagen. I still feel attached to Berlin, but at the same time the city becomes more and more foreign to me. And vice versa Copenhagen was for a number of years just a city I lived in, without the feeling that this is my home. It was somewhat in between, which was strange. However, after a while I found the right corner here for me and finally clicked with Copenhagen. Strangely though, I also feel more independent from where I am, as long as I'm with my family, it's difficult to describe. I guess they are my own little biotope :-).

Which place do you have a special connection to?

I have a very special connection to a place in Berlin called Gropiusstadt, a settlement of various tower blocks designed by Walter Gropius in the south of Berlin. I grew up nearby and had a couple of friends there and also had to pass through to get to the local swimming pool, which is why I spent quite a bit of time between these tower blocks. It always felt like a very surreal place to me, because of the sheer amount of concrete reaching into the sky.

Photo: Malte Brandenburg

Photo: Malte Brandenburg

I could not fathom that almost 50 000 people lived there. Also from a sociological point of view it's a quite interesting place and how it has changed within a relatively short period of time. This place was one of the first topics I was drawn to when I started to focus my photography more and more on urban architecture. I still return to Gropiusstadt on a regular basis.

What is beyond your front door?

Beyond my front door there are friends, a nice park and the beach, which I appreciate a lot. About 40 meters away there is also one of the best bakeries in town with shelves of sourdough bread!

What place would you most like to visit?

I would like to travel through Eastern Europe, all the way to Russia. I am fascinated by the culture and especially the food.

What are you reading / watching / listening to right now?

I am currently reading Agent to the Stars, a novel by John Scalzi about an alien race on earth that hires a PR agent in order to manage the revelation of their presence to humanity - it's hilarious! I also just finished The Last Dance, the Michael Jordan documentary. One of the best documentaries I have seen. I might be biased though, as he was a bit of a childhood idol. In terms of music, I listen a lot to Moi Caprice these days, a Danish band I discovered by accident, because the lead singer's daughter goes into the same class as my son.  

*

Find out more about Malte Brandenburg on his website and Instagram.

These streets are life: Withington

Photo: Gursh Nijjar

Photo: Gursh Nijjar

By Andrew Edgeworth:

Borders are many things; physical, lines on a map, constitutional, binding. But most are psychological. There is a contrast where borders are concerned and while they may not all be manned by armed guards and Government backed, society ensures they remain in place.

In a springtime induced fugue I set out to clear my head, a walk through a neighbourhood I’d come to know over the past twelve months or so. Leaving Ballbrook Avenue I headed on to Palatine Road; the birthplace and home of that great Manchester institution, Factory Records. A blue plaque of commemoration is hidden from all but the most observant. You can still see the spectre of the irascible Tony Wilson on the squalid balcony, gazing down at you, fag in hand. 

In the grounds of one of the horrendously named apartment blocks, (Mottram Manor, Barry Court) the corpse of a cat lies in the undergrowth. The locus delicti unknown, but it had undoubtedly come to rest here in its final moments. In fairness there are worse places to call it a day than under a juniper bush. Had it been run over or poisoned? Who knows? It was not a time to tarry. 

It is here that the Christie hospital seeps into Didsbury gradually, like expanding foam. Every new piece of it is shinier and grander than the last. Progress is signposted by disinfected metals and floor to ceiling strip lights. At one of the many entrances are groups of smokers waiting for death on the pavement, their chemotherapy drips in tow.

The Christie is a non-smoking site

I struggle for a collective noun, the scene neither suburban nor hospice, presents a moral dilemma which forces me onwards. 

Adjacent to me, residents of an anonymous halfway house patrol the pavement in various states of unease. Cigarettes and alcohol hold sway.

Just beyond them the inmates of a nursing home stare on blankly from secure balconies. A vast complex with hourly blue light visits. 

St Cuthbert’s Church stands on the corner of Marriott Street and its foodbank is now just as much a source of salvation. Money is tight and time tighter.

CONFESSIONS: Saturdays: 11am-12pm

The penitent queue stretches back down Palatine Road every Monday lunchtime, and seems to get bigger by the week. In years gone by it would have made the front page of a national newspaper. Now we all put our heads down and shuffle past it on the opposite side of the road. 

Cross over the road my friend, ask anybody but the Government for a lend

But the faex populi are not welcome in Didsbury. The needy are an unwanted nuisance in the Tory version of Chorlton. They want their upcycled tables made from unwanted pallets. Just as long as there is still sufficient parking for Range Rovers outside of hipster brunch establishments. Withington is now a little too close for comfort. 

The crossroad with Wilmslow Road and Burton Road mark the unofficial, official start of Withington. An open air theme park for all walks of life, tightly crammed into a place that is different things to different people. Mamucium begins here!

The former White Lion pub is now a Sainsbury’s Local where kind students often sit on the ground outside with the local indigents sharing fags and sandwiches. Long-term cash machine tenants asking about that bizarre concept – spare change. Contactless payment now limits reward. 

The old Scala theatre has been demolished and replaced at the behest of Britannia Group and is now a vulgar set of flats complete with an out-of-place Costa coffee shop on the ground floor. 

Like all apartments they are mandatory luxury – you are no longer allowed, nice or mediocre apartments. No definition exists however. Opposite is yet another set of luxury apartments, balconies affording uneasy viewing for overpaying residents. A strategic reinventing of the local is underway. Old shopfronts have been replaced by bike rack balconies. In Didsbury blocks of apartments (never flats) are given names that couldn’t be further from reality; Alpine Court, Didsbury Gate, Larke Rise. Not so in Withington – they are only allowed a number.

On the main drag a commotion ensues at the bus stop by the now derelict municipal building. A hugely obese man is destroying his walking stick by repeatedly smashing it against the bus stop pole whilst shouting “BASTARD BUS DRIVER” at the top of his voice. The local pedestrians and motorists, despite being at very real risk of injury from flying pieces of cheap timber that are now flying around at all angles, remain oblivious to his protest. The 43 bus adds insult to injury by stopping at the pedestrian crossing a few yards further on. With no stick left he furiously shakes the handles of his wheeled walking frame. The obscenities continue.

Withington high street (Wilmslow Road) is much the same as many others that have suffered in recent years. There is not the spendthrift clientele of the South Manchester ‘villages’ to make it fashionable. The retail sector look is eclectic-poverty, trapped between eras and demography. An Eastern bloc supermarket peddles super strength lager, while charity shops appeal to the classier end of the market. Other businesses have been there since time immemorial and cling on like barnacles to a sea wreck. A laundrette that still runs on 50p pieces, the locksmiths with less life than a deadbolt.

The former bank is like all others in similar locations – derelict. Above the shop fronts, boarded up windows are strewn in graffiti, while at ground level slum dog estate agents prey on low income renters and those in full-time higher education.

Side alleys are not to be ventured down without purpose, the realm of backstreet MOT garages and taxi companies, a permanent haze of oil and cigarette smoke. It’s back-street traditional. Big men in dirty overalls. Big doors and big dogs.

And no ‘High Street’ is complete without boozers. The Victoria is your classic pub where anybody may be unwillingly plucked from the street at any given time to take part in karaoke. Leopard print and lipstick. Flat caps and vapes. Pints of cheap lager and even cheaper bitter. An eternal happy hour where nobody smiles. 

Albert Wilson’s is a more eccentric place altogether. A Sillitoesque corner bar with ceilings seemingly lowered by the weight of time and an uninviting doorway. Mysterious but not to the point of curiosity. 

Students and young professionals choose instead to seek out the safety of familiarity. A vegan café and a hipster bar with monosyllabic names where there appears to be a requirement to dress as if you’ve fallen through the sale rack in TK Maxx to be accepted (my generation of student was nowhere near as adventurous. We were just boring).

The street is now dividing slowly. To the East runs Egerton Crescent with its record store cum coffee-shop and post office. To the West is Copson Street. Another border is slowly materialising. 

The initial impression of Copson Street is one of pound shops in stiff competition, their wares taking over the pavement, an industrial scale operation for entire families each morning. The constant battle of tat outdoing tat. An entire oceans worth of non-recyclable plastic.  Plant pots, shopping trolleys and reusable food containers in a battle for passing trade attention.

More commotion. A man stood by the open door of a scaffolding flatbed truck energetically screams into a phone while inexplicably pointing to the directions he has taken to what is clearly the wrong address. 

I went right down there and then left back there…

I move on in exasperation, passed the mandatory mobile phone repair shop and bookmaker, complete with its FOBTs (fixed odds betting terminals) promising to ruin yet another life. 

The hub of the street in question however is undoubtedly the location of greasy spoon which sees the denizens of Withington flock daily for a bonne bouche. Come rain or shine the locals huddle at bolero style tables on the pavement, most of whom appear to the victims of widespread hypodontia. A sea of shipwrecked mouths pleading for a willing ear. 

At the various grocery shops care workers of African descent fill shopping trolleys and suitcases on wheels with groceries. Students count change in their hands with a lamentable decision to make over one avocado or a packet of rice. 

Behind the retail sector, Victorian terraces run parallel to the main thoroughfare, gated alleyways act as a honeypot for fly-tippers. Six to a house or split into quick-fix flats, MDF warrens that give fire safety officers sleepless nights.

Nearby, on Mauldeth Road West, a ghost-bike is chained to a lamppost in tribute to Harry Sievey. A local musician and son of Frank Sidebottom creator, Chris Sievey, who perished when his bicycle collided with a car in 2017. 

But these streets are life. Withington is real life, not the show home façade of its snooty neighbour which looks down its nose at it from behind electric gates.

Withington is slowly evolving. High house prices have meant that the people who once fled it are now buying up property. No matter how ugly the new facades of apartment buildings are, investment is there. Once thriving, it hopes to thrive again while Didsbury watches on uneasily.

***

Andrew Edgeworth is a former journalist who has been writing fiction since 2013. He was awarded the 2017 Origins flash fiction prize was runner up in the 2019 Splash Fiction competition. His work has also been published by Fairlight Books. He lives in Manchester with his dog, Orwell.

Notes from a Frontier Town: Some might say, secrets interred

dunes 1.jpg

By J. Miller

Standing atop the dunes of Echoing Sands Mountain (鸣沙山). At the dunes’ base sits Crescent Moon Lake (月牙泉), where some say that at some point in history flying dragons paraded around the shadowy pond where hidden dragons lurked in the depths. That nearby, a monk translated and hid thousands of religious documents. That it was at this geographical point where Christianity and Buddhism mixed. Some might say that it is speculation. 

Off into the distance, an ancient-looking portico unburdened by a building directs its gaze northward towards Dunhuang (敦煌). Camels jockey at the portico, and off-season 4x4s await riders that never come. Snow blankets the dunes. A narrow path leads up the tallest dune. A rope ladder, a staircase that lifts travelers and tourists up the dune. These dunes composed of grains of sand appear sturdy yet transient. The traveler, a temporary pause. A footfall compresses the sand, leaves an indefinite footshape, and sand granules tumble down the dune leaving sunken lanes.

Coming here from faraway I sink into thoughts that travelers’ desires shape their experiences, that experiences can become a form of folkloric experience, and that writing about these experiences is a chance to grasp dead time, or the past.

I find myself unaware that my feet were sinking into the shifting sands. I find myself imagining others that visited here before, who let their feet sink into the sand. Shifting like the sands, the landscape is recontextualized by a traveler’s desire. Wandering throughout the buildings attached to Crescent Moon Lake – a history museum that reminds the viewer of the lake’s impermanence – is a reminder that through these shifting sands the dunes act as a natural barrier for Dunhuang.

I am grateful that I have the museum and park mostly to myself, and that I can come from faraway to visit Dunhuang, if even for a moment.

It’s imaginable that some of the sand also came from far away. That sand was carried through the thin desert air, and it is imaginable that the crescent lake is always threatened. Most of the time the threat comes from some unknowable force. For a time, I tried to let the dunes speak for themselves. Some might say Echoing Sands’ name comes from the sand that whips across the dunes. What language can they speak, where human-language does not factor into the conversation? At one point in time, Dunhuang along with three other cities were frontier garrison towns. Jiuquan (酒泉), another of the garrison towns, is neighbor to a fortress called Jiayuguan (嘉峪关), which some point out has a gate where the exiled and the travelers passed through on their way into the Gobi Desert.

Exiles that passed through this gate carved a note as ritual commemoration, an attempt to internalize the place while at the same time casting it out from memory. The Gate of Demons or the Gate of Sighs. I could not find it. Some might say that it is the gate wishing not to speak with me; that it is an attempt of the fortress to maintain its secrets from an outsider. Checking every gate and tunnel for etched farewell notes, and desiring to interpret contemporary scrawlings for ones thousands of years old [1], I reached an impasse. As one of the travelers visiting a site and trying to create their own narrative to a place, I was a traveler attempting to navigate the fortress’s physical space: the building, arrangement of rooms and entertainment theatres, the angle and height of its ramparts and bastions, and the labyrinth of its corridors reconfigured for a tourist. At the same time, this fortress contained the secrets and shadows and imprints interred in the building.

Writing down my thoughts in a coffeeshop turned barbecue lamb restaurant, a sense of disquiet pervades me. Pictures aside, this written document is the only tactile item that I intend to bring back from this trip. Even then the pictures are just digital relics on a memory card. It’s proof, like a selfie posted on social media, that at one point in time I visited this place. 

I went to a place that on the map said coffeeshop, but instead it sold different variations of the popular Chinese grain spirit (白酒, baijiu) and the owner told me to turn the corner and walk 200 meters, and when I arrived at that location, the restaurant advertised barbecued lamb and served hot water infused with white sugar and soluble coffee-powder. At some point this document will be an attempt to reclaim something, to resuscitate my immediate present with an experience already passed.

Sitting in the barbecue restaurant, the religious grottoes and fortress’ architectural designs protect their secrets in different ways. Thinking about the material and imaginary facets of places: why do certain facets take precedence over others with some aspects of a place declared irrelevant [2]? What makes my search for coffee in a once-garrison town irrelevant compared to looking for scrawlings in stone by exiles? Each place and person is a relic grasping at the tendrils of dead time. In a time of mass consumption, it is imperative to remember that through consuming articles about place, the writing is an act of commemoration. That commemoration is an act of bidding farewell. That it is a ritual practice to forget, and to welcome that place in folkloric history. 

The tourist is not content to let things lie as they should. An imposition of personal narrative always shines through, where the tourist transforms their experiences into an experience that defies any process of linear time. Each traveler reorganizes geographical space and dead time to co mingle with a sense of commemorating the past and leaving with a sense of relevant story, to share with friends, family and other loved ones.

***

J. Miller is a bicyclist and educator based in Wuhan, China. His writings can be found on A South Broadway Ghost Society (2019) and A Dozen Nothing (2019) with a broadside from Chax Press (2020). J. Miller is a lecturer at Central China Normal University, where he is constantly clipping branches from the Osmanthus trees. He is the founding editor of Osmanthus which has collective focus to publish reflexive poetry and prose chapbooks and related objects. As tea drinker and bicyclist, find him in the Osmanthus branches, or here on Twitter, @yawn_sea

Notes:

[1] Cable, Mildred. The Gobi Desert. London: Readers Union Limited, 1942. pp.13-14

[2] Mbembe, Achille. “The Power of the Archive and its Limits.” In Reconfiguring the Archive, eds. Carolyn Hamilton, Verne Harris, Jane Taylor, et al. 19-26. Boston: Kluwer Academic Publishers, 2002. pp.19-26. 

Zadonsk – a poem by Osip Mandelstam

Painting: A Wooded Marsh by Jacob van Ruisdael

Painting: A Wooded Marsh by Jacob van Ruisdael

Introduction by Alistair Noon:

Between 1934 and 1937, the Russian poet Osip Mandelstam lived in internal exile in the city of Voronezh, roughly half-way between Moscow and the Black Sea and not far from the Ukraine (the local accent shares features with Ukrainian). He was accompanied by his wife Nadezhda Mandelstam, who was to play a crucial role in the preservation and posthumous publication of his late work, including the poem translated below. He had been arrested and sentenced after he had written and read, at a private reading in Moscow, a poem that has become known as the Stalin Epigram. Not long after his internal exile ended, he was re-arrested and transported to the Soviet Far East, where he died in 1938, in a Gulag transit camp.

Constantly having to change their accommodation owing to the acute shortage of housing in Voronezh, the Mandelstams were able to spend the summer of 1936 in a small town nearby called Zadonsk, after friends including Anna Akhmatova and Boris Pasternak had collected enough money for them to do so. The Mandelstams rented a room from a farmer on Karl Marx Street No. 10, outside of which stood a poplar. While there, Nadezhda Mandelstam returned to painting watercolours (she had studied art in Kiev), and news of the first show trials, inaugurating the Great Terror of 1936 to 1938, came over the municipal loudspeakers.

Jakob van Ruisdael (c. 1629–1682) was a Dutch landscape painter.

***

“Zadonsk”

Like a vinyl-thin Gillette
that gently shaves off hibernation,
let's ruffle the memories we've kept
of that summer we lived half-Ukrainian.

Honouring Ruisdael's paintings,
you treetops whose titles are known
give dishevelled woods their saintly
name-days. One bush was a start, alone
in the amber and flesh of red loam.

That land has an upward tilt.
I was glad to see its clear layers,
be lord of the land's simplicity
I grasped in its seven chambers.

Its hills would fly to their target
far off, like loose stacks of wheat.
Across the steppe, the boulevard
laid a chain of tents in the heat.
Hotfoot to the blaze went the willow,
and the vain poplar stood up...
The stubble's camp was yellow,
the frost would steam in the rut.

And the mongrel Don, once again,
was a glittering silver, ungainly,
scooped water by the half-bowl,
then got lost – yes, that was my soul –

when the weight of evening was eased
down onto the brutal bunks,
and we heard the carousing trees
burst, like hawk-moths, from the riverbanks.

15 – 27 December 1936
Osip Mandelstam
Translated by Alistair Noon

***

Alistair Noon's translations of Osip Mandelstam, Concert at a Railway Station, appeared from Shearsman Books in 2018. His own poetry collections include Earth Records (2012) and The Kerosene Singing (2015), both from Nine Arches Press. He lives in Berlin.

when the silence comes: a short film by Liang-Hsin Huang

We are extremely pleased and proud to be able to share on Elsewhere the work of Liang-Hsin Huang, an animator whose short film when the silence comes is a beautiful and poetic work about the silent moments in a relationship and the places where they are shared. A Taiwanese animator and director, Liang-Hsin Huang focuses on 2D and hand-drawn animation inspired by poetry. She says: “I love to explore how emotions can present in moving images and how they react in the spaces. when the silence comes is a film about these themes. When you are with others, there are always some awkward moments when you don’t want to say a word and the space turns silent and unreal.”

You can read more about Liang-Hsin Huang’s work via this interview with It’s Nice That, and you can explore her website and follow her on Instagram here.

The Easternmost House... an interview with Juliet Blaxland

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As a companion piece to the third of our essays by Anna Iltnere about literary seaside houses – The Easternmost House – we present an interview with Juliet Blaxland...

Interview by Anna Iltnere:

Juliet Blaxland, writer, architect and illustrator, had lived in a coastal house by the North Sea with her family for more than a decade. The house doesn’t exist anymore but continues to live in a book she wrote about it. The Easternmost House: A Year of Life on the Edge of England was published last April, when the house was still standing on the edge of the cliff in Suffolk, England, overlooking the sea. The Easternmost House was demolished this February, so it wouldn’t fall into the sea. 

I contacted Juliet Blaxland to ask her about her relationship with the sea, her view on the seaside houses and what she misses the most from The Easternmost House.

The book is a love letter to a house that no longer exists. Was it easy or hard to write it?

I found it oddly easy to write The Easternmost House because by the time the idea of a book occurred to me we had lived there for ten years or so, and I grew up in the countryside nearby, so it was very much familiar territory. It seemed sad to me after so much had happened at the Easternmost House, and so many people had known and loved the house, its immediate surroundings of the beach and the farm over the centuries, that one day soon, there would be only empty sky where the house had been, and ‘the people on the beach below will not know’.

I don’t know why it bothered me that ‘the people [of the future] on the beach below’ would not know, but it did, and that became the incentive to write, so that they would know. And now, the people on the beach below, and the people of the future, will know. That is how the book ends, with that image of the empty sky over the beach, where the house and the cliff once was.

What is your understanding of ‘sense of place’? What creates place?

‘Genius Loci’, the Roman religious concept of ‘spirit of place’, is perhaps my starting point when thinking about sense of place. A sense of place can be found in all different environments: desert, farm, city, church, country house, town house, skyscraper, mountain, forest, and so on. What seems to define the ‘place’ to me is some sense of its essential character and ‘spirit’. There is a knack to finding the spirit of a place, but I believe that this can be found in any place, and I also believe that some people seem to be more attuned to feeling that 'spirit of place more instinctively, more easily, than other people. Some don't seem to feel a ‘sense of place’ at all, and nor do they seem to need it. I think most people do feel it and need it, even if they might not be able to pin down exactly what they mean or what they need. Most of us know the feeling of being in our own ‘right place’, literally or metaphorically, and it is a great gift if we can find that place of calm in our minds, as it goes with us wherever we are. 

I am an architect, so I have often thought about the idea of a ‘sense of place’, ‘genius loci’ or ‘spirit of place’, and its uncatchable but knowable feeling still intrigues me, as it has done since I was a student and unwittingly since I was a child. The old house and farmyard where I grew up had a 'sense of place' in spades, and my mother still lives there, so it is still an ongoing preoccupation to work out what it is. 

What do you miss most about the Easternmost House?

What I miss most is the visual emptiness of living right on the edge of the cliff, so that from our windows, from our bed, the view was of the sea, the horizon, and often some 'big' weather, far beyond what we normally experience in more sheltered places or inland.

We have been lucky in that we have moved only a mile or two up the coast, and can still walk to the Easternmost House site, and see it from afar, and we still live only about 500 metres from the sea and the cliff edge, but the sea is now a big field away not 10 metres!

Are seaside houses somehow different from other houses?

To me it is the isolation and the open view that is the difference, not necessarily the sea, although the sea certainly adds a vast and different dimension to everyday living. A ‘seaside house’ in a seaside town, perhaps a holiday place crowded in summer, would to me be less appealing than a isolated cottage on a farm or similar. I don’t mind the inconvenience of living in the countryside, as I grew up with it. The sea adds enormously to the different sounds you hear, and the very different birds and animals you see on the coast, seals, oystercatchers, bitterns etc.

Two of my favourite books are The Outermost House by Henry Beston and Ring of Bright Water by Gavin Maxwell, both of which describe an extraordinary life in an extraordinary house ‘on the edge’, of the land, on the edge of the norms of society and on the edge of the mass of humanity. Both of these houses were destroyed by natural forces, a storm and a fire, respectively. The Easternmost House having been destroyed by coastal erosion seems a natural companion to these two (the books and the houses themselves). 

We have visited the site where the Easternmost House used to be, and it is strange to see an empty space where so recently we lived. The trees and surrounding landscape is still there and completely recognisable. It is only us, and the house, that has gone. It some ways, it is probably a good thing, to leave a nice, clean, quiet cliff, so that the birds and other wild animals are no longer disturbed by our chatter, and our greyhound, and our just ‘being there’.

What the sea means for you?

I think we all have quite a complex and conflicted relationship with the sea. The sea is mesmerising to be near, or to swim in. It connects us to the rest of the world, and that is one of the things I like about being near the sea. I think islanders tend to be culturally less insular than land-locked peoples, as islanders are constantly look outwards not inwards, and have a history of accommodating those who have arrived or invaded by sea. I am fascinated by the sea and sea people in different parts of the world, different fishing methods and so on, and I love the more remote parts of Venice and the Venetian lagoon. On the other hand, I always feel the enormity and dangers of the sea, and at night when we listen to the BBC Shipping Forecast, your mind tends to wander, to think of ‘those in peril on the sea’ as that famous hymns puts it.

***

Read Anna’s essay on the Easternmost House here

Anna is the founder of the Sea Library in Jūrmala, Latvia and the author of our ‘Unreal estate’ series of essays on literary houses by the sea. On the Sea Library website you can read reviews, interviews and, of course, borrow a book.

Here were giants...

MiddleEarth.jpg

By Fiona M Jones:

This is a mountain-range on Middle Earth. Twisted folds of rock, precipitous cliffs and narrow hidden glens. Deep caves below, where live the things that hide from the light of day. Confronted with this massif you must scale it or negotiate, at your peril, the subterranean pathways—

OK, it’s a tree stump in a cow field. It’s still epic. By its girth it must have been a giant, shrugging off the centuries, a thing that lived until it had forgotten how to die. This one’s the largest in a widely-spaced row just outside the southern boundary of the Pitfirrane golf course, along from the prisoner-of-war base. 

Somebody, at some point in the mid-to-late 1900s, must have looked at these majestic trees and decided to cut them down. Every one of them, levelled to knee-height. I wonder where the hundred-tons of wood went—how much was burned, which gates and roof-beams came from these. And when. These tree-remains have stood for decades, rotting hollow and silvering, mossing on the outside, concealing who knows what of rodents and invertebrates. 

Perhaps this row of giants would all have fallen by now anyway, succumbing one by one to wind or lightning, untidy in their dwindling. Trees should be tidy, someone must have said; and untidy trees are only worth their wood. 

But how tidy do you need a muddy field, one you can’t even walk through except after weeks without rain? Even before it was a cows’ field it was only a prison camp. Before that it would have belonged to the original Pitfirrane estate. Someone two or three centuries ago planted a row of saplings for the edge of a road or the boundary of a vista. Most land in Britain has changed its use so many times you’ll find a king in a car park or a Roman bath under a shopping centre. I don’t know what this landscape was when these trees first came here. 

Here were giants, at the edge of this boggy field churned deep with the hooves of cattle. Not much of each giant is left. Enough to house a few families of hedgehogs and mice, and a nation or two of woodlice. If you step on top of this tree stump you still stand upon the roof of a world. 

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Fiona M Jones is a creative writer living in Scotland. Fiona is a regular contributor to Folded Word and Mum Life Stories, and an irregular contributor all over the Internet. Her published work is visible through @FiiJ20 on Facebook, Twitter and Thinkerbeat.